This was a quiet day for men and beasts alike. It was drizzling when we woke up this morning, and it continued to drizzle for most of the day. In its own way, it was a nice change of pace.
Fortunately, when there’s wifi rain really doesn’t matter, does it?
Eli was happy sleeping most of the day, but when I opened the door he made a good faith effort to get up and walk outside. Edie gave me a “You’ve got to be kidding” look and refused to budge.
We had some time on our hands today since we were not able to get into our house in Inverness until four in the afternoon. So we first spent a little time walking around Cesar Chavez Park in the Berkeley Marina.
We decided that it might be fun to go into San Francisco for a bit of lunch, and we decided that dim sum on Clement Street would be fun. The place we were planning to eat was closed for the week for some reason, so we found a restaurant with the fabulous name of the “Tong Palace.” Afterwards, we figured the Chinese markets there would be a good place to pick up some really fresh produce.
We went across the bridge to what Herb Caen used to call “Marvelous Marin” and decided to to make a stop in one of its most precious spots, Mill Valley, a town that makes Carmel seem vaguely down-at-heel. We had some coffee and gelato there as it began to rain. Eli was bored. Edie, ever the princess, looked like she had been born to live in Mill Valley.
We stopped at the Safeway there to pick up some groceries, and from there Daniel, our ever patient British GPS voice, directed us to find Highway 1 towards Inverness.
Most people usually like the ride through Mount Tamalpais State Park up to Stinson Beach, and it certainly is beautiful route on a sunny day, but this was not that kind of a day and it was a miserable ride. When Daniel picked this route he apparently did not know that pork buns, gelato, and a tendency towards motion sickness is NOT a good combination. I will leave out the worst details, but suffice it to say, dear readers, that John was miserably sick. You will be happy to know that I had the good sense not to record any of this with the camera.
After a wretched – or perhaps retched – 90 minutes on the road we finally arrived at our lovely Inverness accommodations. I’m sure that when the sun finally comes out we will see the promised panoramic view of Tomales Bay.
The dogs seemed to instinctively know that the trip was over and that this would be home for a while.
It’s supposed to rain some more tomorrow, but I still need to finish my work from Olympia and there is the season finale of Mad Men to watch.
I woke up this morning frankly feeling not much better than I had the night before. We took a while to get cleaned up and out of the hotel room. We still had some time before we were supposed to drop the dogs off with their sitters and head to Naida’s party. So we decided to walk around the Cal campus since neither of us had been there in years.
As soon as we parked, we found that many things in Berkeley just do not change at all.
The dogs had to see all the highlights of the campus such as the Sather Tower and the University Library.
And, of course, Edie is a big fan of the Free Speech Movement – or the Free Bark Movement, as she prefers to call it – so we had to stop by the Free Speech Cafe for a picture.
After we wandered around for a bit, I was feeling exhausted and in need of a cup of coffee, and Eli was starting to drag, too, poor thing. We looked for a place on Telegraph Avenue, but it unfortunately had not changed much from the late 70’s when a former college roommate who had gone off to Berkeley described it to me in a letter is “psychopathology as street theater.” We found a spot on the other side of campus.
We dropped the dogs off with their pet sitters at a house in Oakland – not that far from where Naida lives. In the past we had always taken them to the party, but Raul now has a cat so we could no longer bring them. We had a tough time finding day care for them in the East Bay. All the commercial services wanted them to come for an “evaluation” which apparently needed to be scheduled for months in advance. Somehow, getting your child in The Dalton School must be easier than arranging for canine care in Oakland. Fortunately, we found a service called Rover which matches pet sitters to clients. The dogs spent the afternoon with Randi and Travis, a sweet young couple who no doubt needed the business more than Citizen Canine did.
Up in the hills, the garden looked as lovely as ever.
It was nice talking to all these people I had no seen for a year, but we finally had to tear ourselves away to pick up the beasts.
In the evening, we went off to see Much Ado About Nothing, an odd cinematic adaptation of the Shakespeare play. I doubt I will think about it much, but I liked it better than the Branagh film. Still, it cannot quite compare to watching it in Vancouver watching the sun set over English Bay.
I had a four great days in Olympia, Washington – other than being slightly sick. I had an amazing group of eight mentors for training, and Sue Tait, the diocesan coordinator, could not have been more warm and hospitable.
I had a few hours on Wednesday afternoon and Thursday morning to walk around Olympia. I had never spent any time in Washington’s capital city before. In fact, usually when I thought of Olympia it was as a place where I had to watch the signs carefully so that I made it to Seattle instead of finding myself on the Kitsap peninsula.
Oympia is an older city than Seattle. As the plaque indicates, it was the end of the Oregon Trail.
The town is dominated by the State Capitol and the other surrounding buildings which form the Capitol Campus. Designed around 1910 at the height of the “City Beautiful” movement, they sits on a hill overlooking the town and the Deschutes River. Done in the classical style – at least as interpreted by the Ecole des Beaux Arts – the complex of buildings has the look and feel of a modern acropolis.
As I was wandering over the complex of government buildings, I found this intriguing monument to Korean War Veterans.
I was staying at the Phoenix Inn, a hotel near the waterfront. A couple decades ago various industrial buildings covered this area, but there has obviously been an effort to both clean up the environment and to open up the city to the lovely Budd Inlet, the southernmost point of the Puget Sound.
I finished my training today around three, and Sue drove me back to Sea-Tac. My flight to Oakland, unfortunately, wasn’t until 9:00 in the evening, and I had to wait there for hours. It would have been a little more tolerable had I not been feeling quite sick. John graciously agreed to pick me up from the Oakland airport despite, and I made it to bed by just before midnight.
There is some advertisement for a luxury car with the tag line, “The Journey is the Destination.” I suppose that is a fair description of our very long trip home.
We left China Mountain House around 9:30. It was our first foggy day in Port Orford, and the very grayness helped nudge us to pack the car and depart. The dogs were particularly anxious. They always seem to fear that we will leave them behind. But we never do.
In fact, after about an hour on the road, we stopped at Samuel Boardman State Park to let them stretch their legs. This narrow park stretches on either side of the highway for about a dozen miles and it contains some of the best post card scenery of the southern Oregon coast.
We continued on through charmless cities Brookings and Crescent City. We went through the towns in the interior of Mendocino county. We stopped briefly in the redwoods because dogs ought to see California’s most majestic trees.
But would they look up and be inspired by these ancient solemn trees? No, siree, Bob. They only wanted to smell the ground!
The dogs had their final stretch break in Berkeley. Had we had more time I would have walked them around campus to help them improve their minds. But we were short of time, so they only were able to walk around the marina.
There had been some kind of kite festival earlier, and we there were still one or two kites in the air.
We drove a little further, and stopped to have a quick bite to eat at Panda Express in Brentwood. When I left the Bay Area in 1985, I am not sure there was even a town there. As night fell, took over the driving duties from John and I drove home down the long stretch of highway 5 and up the Grapevine. We arrived home at 1:30 am today.
So, here is to another road trip!
For our last day in Oregon, we first spent a the morning enjoying the lovely view from China House. But since we probably will not be back to this part of the world for a while, we decided to explore a bit of Port Orford and neighboring areas.
There’s not a whole lot of town here in Port Orford. You might barely notice it if you were driving on Highway 101. The only thing that might catch your attention is the local movie theater and its mural.
But with a little advice from a good guide book, you would also come across Susan’s Chocolates nearby. Susan – she’s the one in the picture below – makes scrumptious truffles and nougats by hand. They’re delicious!
From Port Orford, we headed north to the Seven Devils Recreation Area. I have no idea who give this empty stretch of beach this name or why they did it, but for the dogs it might as well have been Seven Angels. They were in heaven there! John was a little less thrilled because it was cold and windy.
From there we drove a little south to the town of Bandon. John says that a number of years ago we spent an afternoon here riding bicycles and we were quite taken with the town. I only vaguely recall this, but my poor memory is the principal reason for keeping this blog. I was not that enchanted with it on this visit. The dogs definitely gave it four paws down because there was not a bowl of water anywhere.
We then traveled on to the New River ACEC. I have never heard of an ACEC before, but apparently it is a government designation for “Area of Critical Environmental Concern.” The New River supposedly formed in the late 19th century after some flooding. The area was used as pasture for a while, but now it is habitat for many different kinds of birds including the snowy plover. It was pleasant enough hiking through the scrub forest, but the dogs, who have no particular interest in birds, were somewhat bored.
We returned to our delightful rental mansion to drop off the beasts and take a short rest. There are a number of interesting bits of furniture in it. This coffee table is probably the most striking.
We decided to skip cooking this evening and to to the local foodie hangout, Redfish. We called for a reservation but were told they were full. Nevertheless, we showed up and they somehow managed to find a table for us.
The food was excellent, and remarkably cheap. We had our second-best dinner in Oregon (our repast at Avignon in Portland being the best) for a mere 44 dollars. There was entertainment, too. Gary, our landlord was playing jazz guitar at the restaurant this evening. He is the one on the right. He has a strong musical background. He dropped out of architecture school to play guitar with some major bands. He said that He said he owed his success to drugs because he usually found himself with a job when one of the musicians had to go into rehab!
Outside the restaurant is Battle Rock, the scene of resistance from the natives to whites arriving with “land claims” in 1850.
Back at China House, we enjoyed our last sunset.
Tomorrow, it’s back to Los Angeles and the world of work.
We spent the morning at the enjoying China Mountain House. While the view is spectacular from the deck, Edie found the rope sculpture far more fascinating. I don’t think she has ever seen anything quite like it.
John found a spot where he could both enjoy a book and the view.
When he tired of reading, John decided it was time for some exercise.
Still, after a while we decided to do some exploring. And the logical place to start was just north of here at Cape Blanco.
I must freely admit that I did not take this picture but borrowed it from NASA. Cape Blanco can be seen as the farthest point on the left. The name supposedly comes from Spanish explorers who sailed past the area and called it “Cabo blanco.” George Vancouver called it Cape Orford, but his name only stuck to the nearby town. Cape Blanco is generally considered the most western point in the contiguous states. It is also one of the most seismically active spots on the continent as well, and the land rises several millimeters a year.
Because of its location, and the rocks and reefs which surround the point, it is not surprising that this was the location of the first lighthouse along the southern Oregon coast. And despite what I already wrote about visiting lighthouses, it seemed like we should stop in since we were here.
This lighthouse is actually still functioning though I suspect that today the electronic equipment surrounding the lighthouse – all surrounded by fences and signs instructing visitors to stay away – are more important for navigation than the light issuing from the tower. Nevertheless, there is a 1000 watt bulb in the lens which shines day and night.
The docents here at this lighthouse were really knowledgeable and good. And they were so regretful that they could not let the dogs in the tower. But I don’t think they would have cared much for the stairs anyway.
A couple miles down the road from the lighthouse is the farmhouse of the Hughes family. Patrick Hughes, originally of County Tyrone in Ireland, was a pioneering dairyman and he established a ranch with over 100 cows on 2,000 acres along the Sixes River. He built this house in 1898. A Catholic in Protestant Oregon, he not only built the local parish church, Mary Star of the Sea, but also set aside one of the rooms in his house as a chapel.
The house is furnished in period antiques though not many have any necessary provenance to the house itself. Our guide decried the pink wall paper in this bedroom, but the sign at the door indicated that the occupant of the room was a son who never married….
There is no ranching taking place in the area right now, and the land has been allowed to slowly begin to revert back to a more natural appearance. We took the dogs on a hike. It was windy and cold! But Eli had his ball so he didn’t care.
We stopped on our way back at Port Orford Heads State Park. This is a smaller headland than Cape Blanco located right in Port Orford itself. The Coast Guard set up a rescue operation here in 1934 and it remained active until about 1980. The dormitories and other buildings from this era are still intact and form a museum. We were too late to do the tour of the museum, so we just looked at the boats.
Back at the house, John relaxed with some cheese and crackers and enjoyed the spectacular view. The dogs, exhausted from their afternoon romps, just slept.
I cooked dinner, and we ate with view of the sun setting into the ocean.
Evening brought to a close a near-perfect day on the Oregon coast.
After darkness fell, we watched a movie on the home theater system. I doubt I would ever invest in a 14 foot screen built into the living room ceiling, but it was fun anyhow.
It was warmer this morning than it was yesterday morning, but the fog had settled in thick overnight and it showed little sign of departing anytime soon. We were just as happy, then, that we were leaving today and heading south. We cleaned up Doe Cottage – my parents always insisted that when you rented a place you needed to leave it as clean as you found it – and John did his usual exemplary job of packing the car.
I knew it was going to be a long drive to Port Orford, but I gasped when Daniel displayed that trip at five and a half hours. Still, the Oregon coast is stunningly beautiful – at least when you are not in Lincoln City or Newport – so it was not a bad drive south. We stopped in the lovely town of Florence for lunch.
While Florence presents a good many options for eating – though none highly rated on UrbanSpoon or Yelp – there was only one which seemed to welcome canines. So we had an overpriced and uninspiring lunch on the dockside patio at the ICM C Food Restaurant. It wasn’t very good, but the dogs were given nice big bowls of water and there ample shade for them.
We continued on to Port Orford. John had willingly gone along with all my frugal trip planning, but he wanted one little splurge on this trip. And that splurge was renting the China Mountain House. Probably because it is in the middle of nowhere – Coos Bay is the nearest metropolis – renting this entire house was still far cheaper than a small room at the Santa Barbara Biltmore. And it is way more fun. The place is straight out of Architectural Digest.
The house sits on a bluff overlooking the ocean with panoramic views up and down the coast.
The dogs took little time to make the place their own.
Eli, decided that he looked his most dashing surrounded by contemporary art.
The stairs to the second floor were a little too much for Eli, and even Edie was initially skeptical of them. But she quickly adapted.
In the evening we walked down the hill and tool a stroll on the beach.
It was completely deserted, just the way dogs like it.
On the way back, a smiling woman with yoga mat in the back of her car waved at us. But just after that saw this sign. There was something about the surveillance camera on it and the vaguely fascist emblems on the poles on either side of the driveway (you can see just one in the picture below) that made it seem even creepier.
Tomorrow, we’ll explore the area a little more as well as enjoying our house.
It was clear but cold when we woke up. The thermometer read 45; for those of us from Southern California, that’s January! But it made little difference as we were not planning to hit the beach right away. No, as intrepid tourists how could we resist Tripadvisor’s number 1 attraction in the area, the Tillamook Cheese factory!
The Tillamook Creamery – its official name – is pretty cheesy (sorry, I couldn’t resist that). You look down on two rooms. In one, the milk is heated until the curds (solids) and whey (liquid) are separated. Artificial color is added to the curds, and they pressed and heated until even more water comes out. Finally, the machines extrude 40 pounds blocks of yellow milk solids. A conveyor belt sends these blocks to another room where another group of workers seal them in plastic bags. The lighting was not great, and somehow the camera made the cheese look even more unnatural than it already was!
At this point, the cheese is sent over to a warehouse for aging. Generally the longer a cheese is aged, the better its flavor. But it is expensive to simply stockpile cheese under climate-controlled conditions, so after about 60 days most of the cheese is sent off to market.
The real attraction, the reason there are so many RV’s in that parking lot, is the cheese bar when you can get free samples of the different Tillamook products. They are arranged in order of aging. The first bowl has cheese curds, the slimy little pieces of unaged cheddar. Prior to this I had only had cheese curds on poutine, but they were no better separated from soggy French fries and pork gravy.
The tasting room led into the shop where all the flavors of Tillamook cheese are on sale. We bought a chunk of the three year cheddar which is really quite good. I cannot be quite so effusive about the 60 day cheddar. There is also a large ice cream stand where the different flavors of Tillamook ice cream can be sampled. John and I shared the five flavors for five dollars bowl. I liked Mudslide the best.
One the way back from the Tillamook Creamery we found the Tillamook Crematory. I am sure that my vegan friends would probably not see this as merely a difference of a few letters, but as emblematic of the evil of dairy consumption. John just figured that if he had been typing our morning destination into the GPS he might have ended up here instead.
We spend the afternoon doing the Three Capes Drive. We did much of this a few years ago on our first trip to Oregon with Edie. She showed no particular signs of remembering any of it, but as I have often noted dogs seem to have little appreciation for scenery. Here we are at the Cape Mears Lighthouse.
I have to admit that while I would certainly not be in favor of taking down any of these lighthouses, I do not quite understand the attraction they have for some people. There are folks who travel up and down the entire length of the continent visiting different lighthouses with the enthusiasm that birders have for sighting different species. To me, when you have seen one Fresnel lens you have seen all of them.
Not far from this was the Candelabra Tree. This was good, but I pondered how much more fun it could be if it had the full “Trees of Mystery” treatment.
We found an isolated beach not that far away, and Edie and Eli frolicked. Edie seemed intent on posing for photographs. Eli, of course, was obsessed with his ball.
We continued on to Pacific City. It is interesting how all of these towns on the Oregon Coast seem to attract a different group of tourists and each seems to have an appropriately different personality. You can drive your truck on the beach in Pacific City, and it’s not surprising that a brewpub dominates the town like the cathedral does in Durham. Just the signs “Burgers, Burritos, and Beer” tell you all you need to know about Pacific City.
There are sand dunes nearby when you can ride ATVs. One section of it, however, that thankfully set aside as a county park and wildlife area. A creek flowed into the ocean here, and the shallow water and vast expanse of sand were perfect for retrieving tennis balls.
It was late by the time we returned to Netarts. We had planned a longer evening stroll like we had had the night before, but it was very windy and quite cold. So we drove a couple miles to Oceanside and strolled there for a bit.
Despite what felt like arctic conditions to us, the sunset was lovely.
On the way back, we stopped where the boys had build their volcano the night before to see their efforts today. It was even bigger and better! I would definitely give them first prize in the Science Fair.
We packed this morning. Ellen and I took the dogs for one last walk. Since Rafiki will be moving to Virginia later this month, this was probably the last time that Edie and Eli will see their “cousin.” As we walked through her neighborhood, Ellen pointed out some good and bad things. Probably the most interesting was the guy who seems to be building his own version of the Winchester Mystery House out of the pieces of salvaged Victorian homes. We figured it would probably be cheaper to buy food in Portland than on the coast, so we went to Safeway. I found this an unnerving experience. The place was emptier than Ralphs at 3:00 AM. Yet when we went to the checkout the clerk remarked on how busy it was that morning! It made both of us aware of how much as Angelinos we are accustomed to constant crowds.
We left Portland just before noon. As John drove us towards the Ross Island Bridge, I reflected on how many times we have been here in the last few years. Now that Ellen and Mike are leaving, we probably will not be back here for a while. But we certainly have many good memories of time spent here on the banks of the Willamette.
With the unfailing help of Daniel, our Garmin GPS, we drove out towards coast. As we drove towards Beaverton, the sky grew grayer and grayer. We passed farms and then the land grew more forested. As we entered the mountains, though, we could see many swaths of clear-cut forest. It was a reminder that forest products are still an important part of the Oregon economy. It is not all Intel chips and microbreweries. The higher we went in the Coast Range, the more it began to drizzle and we wondered what it would be like on the coast.
But the gloom lifted as we approached Cannon Beach and as we looked out over the water we saw lovely sunlight. We walked the dogs down to the sand. They were so excited!
The sand here is quite white and fine. We went to the far end of the beach where there were quite a few dogs off-leash and let them frolic in the waves.
We drove a few miles south of Cannon Beach to Oswald West State Park. This is one of the most unspoiled parts of the Oregon coast, and the temperate rain forest comes right down to the beach here as it no doubt did until the arrival of the American settlers in the nineteenth century. Dogs are supposed to be on-leash here, but Edie never follows the rules.
Eli went chasing after his ball as usual. He liked the spot where the creek met the ocean.
Edie found a high rock and played King of the Hill.
Eli, meanwhile, found a young admirer who threw the ball to him.
Edie found a waterfall, and decided to pose for pictures.
But, after a couple hours of fun, it was time to leave. They reluctantly headed up the hill towards Highway 101.
From Oswald West, we headed south towards Netarts. We passed through some pretty communities around Nehalem Bay, and then oddly Daniel sent us inland for a while. When we turned again onto Coast Highway, we were just coming into Tillamook. We drove on from there to Netarts and found out cottage without any difficulty.
The Doe Hill cottage is about as basic as you can get. It is a just an A frame with a deck around it. But it does have a view of the distant beach, it is about 500 feet off the highway. After we unpacked our things, we walked down to the beach. As we arrived on the shore, we looked around and remembered that we had been in this area a few years ago. It is a long beach and it took us about two hours to walk up and down the length of it. As we did, Eli ran after his ball and Edie played her game of trying to distract him. We were stunned by the mount of development that has taken place on the cliffs above the beach. The entire length is covered with large vacation homes, all done in the same cedar shingle style. Each house appears to be at least 4000 square feet, and I doubt it there is much more than five feet in between each of the houses. It looked like a favela for rich people.
It was getting dark as we came to the end of the walk. The tide was coming in, and some people had built a small fire on top of a rock. as the water began to surround the rock, it began to seem like an enormous elementary school science fair volcano.
Tomorrow, more beach adventures.
Traveling Johns 